There is a difference between fashion and function in the lash extension world, and the distinction has a lot to do with how volume lash fans are created. Fashion lashes may be big and beautiful, but typically only for a short time and can often result in damage to the natural lashes. Functional, professional lash extensions use volume fans responsibly to ensure long-lasting retention and healthy natural lashes. Let's take a look at what professional-quality volume fans are really made of.
TYPES OF VOLUME FANS AND HOW TO USE THEM
Every lash artist has their own flair and may prefer one type of fan over another. Understanding the differences between fan types will help you become a better lash artist and create consistency in your work.
- Short Stem Pinched Volume Fan: Created using the pinching method for a "snatched" base, this fan type is popular among volume and mega volume lash artists who want to use more lash extensions in one fan. A 0.03mm diameter lash is most commonly used for this fluffy fan style, but 0.05mm diameter lashes can also be used, though with fewer lashes. This method requires less precision, as the many lashes in one fan hide the need for equal spacing. Short stem volume fans are favored for creating a full, dense look with a dark lash line.
- Short Stem Wide Volume Fan: Also known as a "square" base, this fan is created directly on the lash strip by gently tapping the extensions to an even spread with your tweezers. This method is popular with volume and hybrid artists who are meticulous about fan spread and symmetry. The short stem and wide spread create a dense lash line. This method works well with 0.07mm and 0.05mm lashes, though using 0.03mm lashes may be more challenging but possible. Typically, these fans range from 2D-6D, meaning 2 to 6 extensions per fan.
- Long Stem Wide Volume Fan: Created using the pinching method but with more compression at the base to create a longer stem. This fan style offers a wide, fluffy spread but with better retention due to the larger surface area attached to the natural lash. Long stem wide fans are perfect for hybrid or volume sets and are typically 2D-6D using 0.05mm lashes. Other diameters can be used depending on the desired style.
- Long Stem Narrow Volume Fan: Created using the pinching method or on the lash strip, long stem narrow fans are also known as "closed fans" or "spikes." These are often used to add texture and dimension to a lash set in a more artistic way. Long stem narrow fans can also be used like classic lashes to create a "wet set" look. A full set with these fans won't be as fluffy but will offer a more unique appearance.
WHAT MAKES A PROFESSIONAL-QUALITY VOLUME FAN
Professional-quality volume fans will always have a few key characteristics, regardless of style. These include a narrow base where all the lashes evenly come together, an even spread between all the extensions, symmetrical spacing for a mirrored effect on each side of the fan, and mindful use of the number and thickness of lash extensions to ensure the safety of the natural lash. While not all volume fans will look the same, this is an excellent standard to aim for.
POOR VS. PROFESSIONAL QUALITY VOLUME FANS
Look closely at this image and notice how small details can make a big difference. A "Poor" quality fan will result in a messy lash look, decreased retention, and disruptions to an otherwise well-planned lash map. Using professionally constructed volume fans will give you the best chance at success and lead to higher client satisfaction in your lashing career.
BEST TWEEZERS FOR PROFESSIONAL-QUALITY VOLUME FANS
Tools matter when it comes to great lash extension work. You can create volume fans with any volume pick-up tweezer, but your work will be easier and more consistent when using professional-quality tools. Pro Grip tweezers (also known as fiber tip tweezers) offer more control over the lash extensions, ensuring better results when aiming for professional-quality volume fans. Fiber tip tweezers have a textured grip to ensure no lashes are left behind on the strip. They provide a firm grip when creating the fan and keep all the extensions in place during adhesive dipping and placement.
Learn More About Pro Grip Tweezers
DIFFERENT SOLUTIONS ON FANS
Even the best lash work cannot overcome external factors such as dirt and oil. Maintaining a great cleansing routine is essential for both style and retention. When lash extensions are exposed to water, oil, makeup, or other substances, the fans can close up and become sticky. If not cleaned properly, the fan may lift off the natural lash, resulting in poor retention. Show this to clients who are struggling to understand why aftercare is so important.
CONCLUSION
Ultimately, the success of any lash extension set relies on the quality of your volume fans and how well they’re crafted. While tools, fan styles, and techniques can make a significant difference, none of these factors will matter if lash placement is poor. Proper lash placement ensures better retention, enhances the overall look, and protects the natural lashes from damage. By mastering fan creation and lash placement, you can deliver beautiful, long-lasting results for your clients, keeping their natural lashes healthy and maintaining the integrity of your lash sets.