Volume Fans for Healthy Lashes - How to Keep Long Term Lash Extension Clients
What Size Volume Fan is Safe for the Natural Lash?
As a professional lash artist, it is your responsibility to only apply safe volume fans that protect the natural lash. Applying volume fans that are too dense or long can lead to permanent damage, including traction alopecia, drooping effects on the eye, and a significant loss of volume over time, especially when performing lash fills.
You may start off with a client by applying big, fluffy, full fans to create a stunning volume lash extension set. However, if these fans are not safe volume fans for the natural lashes, they can cause the natural lashes to be pulled out. This means that during your client's three-week fill, they will have far fewer natural lashes than normal, making it impossible to achieve the same full, fluffy look as during the initial lash set.
Clients notice when their natural lash line is thinning, and poor retention due to unsafe volume fans can lead to compromised natural lashes, causing them to grow back smaller and thinner. To maintain long-term healthy lashes, it's crucial to use safe volume fans that match the natural lash's strength and density.
FAN DENSITY VS. THE NATURAL LASH
When creating safe volume fans, it's essential to consider the diameter of the natural lash. By exceeding the natural lash's diameter with a volume fan that isn't safe, you risk applying too much weight, which can lead to the natural lash being pulled out. 
If you're aiming for a full, fluffy look with 0.07mm lashes, consider switching to 0.03mm to ensure you're using safe volume fans that won't damage the natural lash. Every client's lashes vary, and lash health can change from one appointment to the next, so always take the time to assess the natural lash's diameter to choose fans of appropriate density.
ASSESSING THE NATURAL LASH
When hand-making volume fans for a lash extension set, it's crucial to customize them to the natural lashes to ensure they are safe volume fans. This involves identifying thicker or thinner natural lashes to apply the appropriate fan size. 
Choose the diameter of the volume lash you want to use and adjust the number of extensions in each fan to match the natural lash's strength. In the diagram below, we've identified three sizes of natural lashes and selected different-sized fans for each type to create safe volume fans. For example: Smaller outer and inner corner lashes circled in red will have a 3D volume fan. Medium growth lashes circled in yellow will have a 5D volume fan. And healthy, thick growth lashes circled in green will have a 7D volume fan.
HEALTHY LASH LINES
There are different types of healthy lash lines, and the health quality is determined by the thickness and spacing of the natural lashes. The three lash lines below may appear similar, but to maintain lash integrity, each should receive a different density of safe volume fans.
SAVE IT FOR LATER
Finally, consider lashes in different phases of the growth cycle when choosing safe volume fans. Anagen, or "baby," lashes should be avoided to allow proper growth into an established catagen lash. Lashes in the middle of their catagen phase should receive lower-density lashes and be treated with caution. Natural lashes near the telogen phase can receive higher-density fans with less caution. 
Remember, just because you are using 5D fans for a lash set doesn’t mean all natural lashes should receive a 5D fan. The beauty of hand-making volume lash fans is the ability to fully customize a lash set with safe volume fans for every client at every appointment.